Paris Fashion Week has come to a close, and so has fashion month for the Ready-To-Wear collections.
Reminiscing on this week’s assortment of fiery fashion collections, each designer demonstrated more innovation and eagerness than ever to make their collection stand out. Iris Van Herpen showed us how 3D printing can create intricate mosaics of dresses, Karl Lagerfeld flirted with internet-inspired emoticons for Chanel the first time since the emotiKarl app (2014), Vivienne Westwood unveiled a truly beautiful gender-less collection of unisex uniforms and Hedi Slimane amidst rumours of his departure showcased a glamorous array of party outfits nostalgic to Yves Saint Laurent’s past, Ready-To-Wear Paris has effortlessly closed the season with standing ovation.
Taking a step back to a more intimate approach to the catwalk, guests at Chanel were each treated to a front row seat, to take in all of the visual delights Chanel had to offer. Inspired by internet culture, garments were adorned with delicate floral graphics blended with amusing emoji’s, peace hand signs, four-leaf clovers, thumbs up and cat faces were amongst the hidden emoticons that seamlessly blended into the intricate designs. Parisian floral blouses, feminine beige, blacks and elegant fabrics were the main focus, along with some classic statement Chanel chunk knits. Silk and tweet billowing suits and trousers flowed elegantly around models ankles, whilst other were accessorised with rows of signature pearls and statement silver necklaces detailed with ‘internet-inspired’ charms.
This season, Tisci was Inspired by Ancient Egypt, translating aspects of the culture into rousing prints for a truly elegant and psychedelic collection, “They were the beginning of everything” says Tisci. His strong message of inspiration was translated into energetic decorative lines, metallic leathers, and explosive digital prints. The whole collection was reminiscent of rich Egyptian history, featuring Sphinxes, Eye of Horus, mythological elements and symbols of Greek immortality. Tisci also included militiaman garments shown through tailored jackets and street style. Models wore garments of contrasting prints such as leopard skin and python, moth wings and psychedelic geometric shapes paired with cat eye-makeup bleached brows.
Iris Van Herpen
Revealing beautifully complex 3D printed dresses in collaboration with 3D artist Niccolo Casas, this season Iris Van Herpen unveiled a truly futurist-inspired collection giving us a solidified insight into what’s to come for contemporary fashion shows. Holographic fabrics, futuristic exoskeleton shapes and holographic panels on set made the models appear as visions of distorting and bubbling doubles. Irresistible textured garments were crafted from webbed, caged, and netted-like textures expertly formed into stylish cocktail dresses with padded shoulders. Models wore sleek up-dos and sci-fi platform shoes along with sleek silk and chiffon tailored suits that are more wearable.
Yves Saint Laurent
Contrasting to it being a ‘Ready-To-Wear’ collection, the notoriously rebellious label exclaimed an attitude of eccentric 80’s-inspired couture. The collection appeared to be a celebratory atmosphere, with the garments being reminiscent of the fashion house’s past following rumours of designer Hedi Slimane leaving his position. Ignoring rumours, Slimane unveiled a explosion of chaotic 80’s glamour reminiscent of stumbling out of a club at 4am. Tight ruched leather, bright sequins, high padded shoulders, clinched waists, and extreme mini skirts punctured with eyelets, the show was absent of music which only further emanated their rebellious ‘loud & lurid’ attitude, only it was present in luxuriously.
The Andreas Kronthaler collection (which pays homage to her design partnership with her husband) was named “Sexercise”. Declared a Gender-less collection, Vivienne Westwood explored what gender means through dress and questions its role in the fashion industry. Male models were styled with skirts and eccentric platforms, along with flowing jumpsuits, feminine metallic co-ords, and were even adorned with makeup and bouquets of flowers. An exotic range of rainbow frocks, and wintry accessories were sashayed proudly. Female models were styled with kooky giant hats and exquisite floral veiled headgear to match bold floral suits. The collection was inspired by an array of sources, including the magnificent garments that decorated the 17th century, and the spirituality of world religion which was accented within the collection was strongly influenced by Buddhist nun Sharon Lishman, a dear friend to Vivienne Westwood.
Inspired by timeless 70’s style, Sonia Rykiel’s latest collection was the epitome of nostalgia and femininity. With long sleeved midi dresses with flirtatious tiered layers, gypsy-like frills, and chunky furs, the collection were reminiscent of fond heritage sentimentality, with a subtle hint of summer in-keeping with the 70’s aesthetic. Models strutted down the catwalk in garments ranging from traditional tweed suits to precariously sheer dresses. Pom poms and billowing trousers, were also expertly paired with sequins and snakeskin, and custom print were designed by Maggie Cardelús for delicate style with punchy a attitude.