The designers, photographers, editors, models, socialites, bloggers and PR teams have descended on New York to kick off fashion month and they’re doing it in style. Each fashion capital has its own fashion identity, meaning there is just as much to see on the street as there is on the catwalk. Micro trends have sprung from the street before so be sure to check the street style pages just as much as the catwalk reports for some new season inspiration. The outstanding trend of the week for us was Model of the Year Cara Delevinge, who has been a part of almost every show. The chameleon model has adopted looks of the seventies, sixties and military effortlessly. At JulesB HQ this week we’ve been discussing and debating what our favourite shows have been and what we think the next big trend will be. Keep reading for our reviews and links to the show videos.
Victoria Beckham showed her Autumn Winter 2013 collection at the New York Public Library, a site full of history and culture, an ideal setting for a Brit abroad. Popularly associated with the highly fashion would-be wedding of Carrie Bradshaw, New York’s Public Library was the perfect venue for Ms Beckham to show her collection in. The show notes said to expect “refined quality within a mannish modernity”, the editors drank breakfast tea while they waited for the show to begin, David Beckham sat next to Anna Wintour on the front row and the fashion world held their breath as they waited for Posh Spice to show her latest collection. Since Victoria’s foray into fashion in 2009, she has gone from strength to strength as she has proved her critics wrong time and time again. Her collections sell out worldwide and she is about to launch an e-commerce site, is there nothing the ex-Spice Girl and mother-of-four can’t do? The collection itself was a vision of autumnal tailoring, retaining somehow that effortlessly feminine silhouette which has become the brands signature. The collection was also Victoria’s first experimentation with knitwear which she executed perfectly. London was a clear influence for the collection, with lots of heritage fabrics and traditional cuts. Our verdict? A standing ovation for our favourite Spice Girl.
For this AW13 season, Prabal Gurung sent an army of feminine warriors down the runway. Clad in khaki, fur and leather with details of fur and embroidery, Gurung said he took his inspiration from the traditional garb adopted by members of Asgarda, a Ukrainian women’s separatist group. Members of this group have retreated into the Carpathian Mountains to emulate the mythological Amazons, training in martial arts and pursuing a life free from men, trafficking and oppression. Powerful silhouettes stormed the runway, from bold peplums to fur-trimmed hoods, the AW13 Prabal Gurung collection was an instant hit with social media and fashion editors alike. A colour palette of military khakis, ink blues, scarlet reds and pure whites paraded down the runway, giving the collection an imperial, regal edge. There are no words to describe the powerful finale, the models marched in military lines each to a designated square of light where they stood for the final time before filing backstage. Prabal Gurung came out to take his bow and the show was over. The show notes showed a softer side to the collection, with Gurung stating “Mom, this one’s for you”. The AW13 Gurung woman is bold, savvy and empowered; we wouldn’t want to go to war against this season’s Gurung girls, would you?
The Balenciaga-bound designer showed his final solo show on Saturday evening and went out with a bang. The collection was his most luxurious and effortless to date, with waists cinched with sashes over chunky knitwear and small sequins glimmering in the fabrics. Leather was also a prominent theme, adding a tough edge to the streamlined collection. Of course with it being a Wang show, the accessories were just as important as the clothes themselves. Big knitted socks were folded down over shoes and boots, accordion shaped briefcases were casually added to looks and scarves flowed down arms into gloves. The looks became more evening wear focussed as the show progressed, showing Wang’s take on 30s and 40s style silhouettes. The collection was an overall success; the looks were effortless with a smart sportswear edge. While we’ll certainly miss Alexander Wang’s solo shows and collections, we’re eagerly anticipating his debut collection for Balenciaga next season. Of his move, Wang said “It’s an amazing feeling. The show’s not over. One more stop to go.” We can’t wait.
Diane von Furstenberg
What a blast from the past! For AW13 Diane von Furstenberg revisited her greatest hits from the brands archives, the signature wrap dresses and silk jumpsuits came back for guest appearances and were updated with new colours and prints to make them fresh and new again. The collection was quintessentially Diane von Furstenberg with a Studio 54 twist and represented the brands ethos perfectly. Feminine, wearable and effortless, the models looked like they were having fun which in turn meant the show itself was fun to watch. The show had a thoroughly New York feel, any of the looks could have walked straight off the catwalk and onto 5th Avenue and no one would bat an eye. The beauty trend was fresh faced with a fuchsia lip and a glossy New York blow dry which matched the tone of the show perfectly. It was Diane’s first season without a second creative director, and as she took her final bow and walked the runway, she was overcome with emotion at the applause and admiration. Forty years in fashion and still humbled by appreciation: we love DVF.
Helmut Lang is known for its signature luxurious drapes and fabrics, and the AW13 collection was a perfect embodiment of the brands aesthetic. Helmut Lang as a brand was re-launched in 2006 after it was acquired by Link Theory Holdings, a Japanese company, who consequently installed husband and wife design duo Michael and Nicole Colovos. Ever since, the brand has strengthened its identity and has created signatures which we now associate with the designs, such as the quality of the fabrics and the trademark drapes and fits. Cubism was an obvious theme for the AW13 collection, set off by the angular shapes and slouchy fits of the garments. A typical Helmut Lang colour palette of greys and blacks accented with darts of colour was evident throughout the leathers and soft jerseys. If you can’t wait to shop the AW13 collection, have a look at the SS13 collection which is available from JulesB right now.
Oscar de la Renta
The build up to the Oscar de la Renta show has been unmistakable. Not just because Oscar de la Renta is one of the most popular shows at New York Fashion Week and his designs are known worldwide for their beautiful aesthetics, but because the AW13 collection will showcase the combined creative talent of Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano. Oscar is famous for his impeccable feminine designs and international influence while John is infamous for his anti-Semitic remarks which resulted in his dismissal from Dior in 2011. Unsurprisingly, the fashion world waited with bated breath to see how the duo would work together. The speculation about the show was huge; would Galliano be the driving force behind the collection? Would his eccentric and bold presence over shadow the modest de la Renta’s? As soon as the show begun, the opinion was unanimous. The AW13 collection was essentially the design aesthetic of Oscar de la Renta, but the details were thoroughly Galliano. Galliano was nowhere to be seen but his presence was evident throughout the collection, he was in the smouldering hair and makeup, the cinched in waists and the ever-so-slightly risky black gown. Overall, the collection was very Oscar, with classic shapes and feminine details prevailing over the bold vision of Galliano we’ve all come to expect. It seems de la Renta and Galliano are the perfect fashion match.
The Michael Kors AW13 collection was the epitome of New York City. Bright, fast-paced, slick and stylish, the collection was a blend of military camouflage and city tailoring topped off with extreme aviators. The concept for the collection was the same for both man and woman, with the same colour scheme and garment structure, making the show coherent and fluid. Details included peplums, thigh high splits, leather piping, waxed knitwear and mannish tailoring; however with the bright colours and structured silhouettes, the collection became powerful and feminine like a Manhattan Woman. The show finished with a flurry of eveningwear, dresses featured asymmetric hem lines in colour blocks of black, tangerine and royal blue giving the collection another level of drama and formality. Our favourite model Karlie Kloss closed the show in a stunning bejewelled dress with a flowing black train. We love the thoroughly wearable designs which Michael Kors has shown for AW13, all accented with a fabulous, rich colour palette and new silhouettes.