The fashion circus regrouped last week for the penultimate week of fashion month in Italy’s fashion capital, Milan. Famed for its fine Italian craftsmanship and attention to detail, Milan Fashion Week is typically Italian in all aspects of design and aesthetic. Luxe silhouettes and sublime evening wear is always expected from the most glamorous city in Europe and the designers did not disappoint. Designers such as Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace and Giorgio Armani all show in Milan and have a strong signature design, so the fashion front row leaned forwards in anticipation of what was coming. Read on for the Jules B round up of some of the shows we loved…
The designer named his AW14 collection “Fade to Grey” and focused entirely on using fabrics such as flannel and wool. Of course from the show notes the collection sounded less than inspiring, however fashion faith remained because after all this is the man who is known for his understanding of feminine silhouettes and who has been hailed as one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century. The show opened with a stunning single lapel suit jacket, styled with a pair of loose, curved cropped trousers. A small flash of green stitching set the tone for the collection – green and grey? The front row held its breath as it waited to see how this colour scheme would evolve through the show. Splashes of lime green, fashion’s most controversial colour, adorned the grey to create an innovative colour scheme which perfectly complemented the silhouettes of the collection. Who knew that grey flannel and lime embellishment could create such a beautiful evening gown? A round of applause for Mr. Armani.
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The AW14 Missoni collection was a vision of urban earth tones, all in heavy knitted wool. “We did a lot of research specifically into texture, to give the knits structure” said Angela Missoni. The result was felted, boiled, double-faced, furred and countless other types of wool which were processed and manufactured in order to meet the demands of the city-dwelling Missoni woman for the season. The colour palette was highlighted by orange and yellow, which accented the earth-urban silhouettes perfectly. The collection was a new aesthetic for Missoni, the design house is usually engineered towards the artisan, eclectic woman and AW14 was decidedly a new route for them with its urban city vibe.
Known for his love of clashing prints and zany designs, Massimo Giorgetti set the tone for his AW14 show with a black and white image of a model’s face on a silk mini dress. The back, of course, was cut from an orange Gerhard Richter inspired silk cloque. The colour palette felt almost oriental, with black highlighted by reds in abstract floral prints. Never one to blend into the background, Giorgetti once again shocked his captors, not with his usual full-on designs, but by seemingly reining in his desire to clash. He showed a Prince of Wales Crombie coat with a colour blocked hem, not something you would expect from the King of Clash. The matchy-matchy brocade trench, top and pants combo was also something which was new to the MSGM catwalk. Could this be a new look for Mr. Giorgetti? Nonetheless, the show was a resounding success.
Donatella surprised us all with her offering for AW14. Having presented a strong collection of evening wear in her couture show, Ms. Versace turned her hand to day wear. Usually, the idea of Donatella doing ready-to-wear would be alien and perplexing, however as bias cut dresses in supple silk with asymmetric hems began to make their way down the catwalk, any doubts were washed away. Whether or not the laser cut thigh high boots are strictly day wear appropriate is debatable, but they capture the essence of the Versace design house perfectly. A straightforward collection with a colour palette featuring petrol blue and vivid red and accented with Lord Mayor of London style ornate chains, AW14 featured a strong array of dresses and outerwear and showed a new side to Ms Versace.
All images are courtesy of style.com