As we come to the end of London Fashion Week, we reflect upon the newest parade of creative and innovative collections by some of the most influential designers of the decade. This season couldn’t have displayed a wider range of diverse visions that inspired each designer’s interpretation of future trends. Personal touches were a common statement, as designers explored their own heritage, personal experiences and points of view.
Contrasting with Alexander McQueen’s talent for creating spontaneous, dark, provoking collections Sara Burton explored her natural talent for exploring romance and femininity. Her collection reflected a mythical cosmos filled with unicorns, moons and stars. Lace, embroidery, and delicate beaded embellishment were a common theme. This whimsical collection explored symbols of femininity, through floral applique, dark velvet, and feathered layers, exploring Burton’s vision of dark romance.
Her shows are famous for not only their eccentricity, but for her opinionated declarations and protests, sparking inspiration and revolutions. With models wearing an “Intellectuals unite” badge, her collection asked us to express the importance of questioning all of the information you’re given. Eccentric suits, wool tights, checks and brown hues decorated the runway with preppy confidence. This display of neck scarves and curled up-dos transformed into a gala of glamorous gowns, with floor-sweeping showstoppers which showcased Westwood’s wide array of designer talents. She also added diamante paperclip earring and splashed model’s fingers with silver paint, to reflect her quirky finishing touches and love of art.
Reflective of his Chinese heritage and roots, Ryan Lo brought Chinese New Year to the catwalk with the runway aesthetics to match. Marking 10 years of him living in London, Ryan Lo used references such as Mulan and Chinese TV Dramas to complement his designs. Using confectionery inspired hues such as red and pink, sheer tulle, and Chinese floral motifs to bring his vision to life. Models wore doll makeup, floral hair clips and statement pearl jewellery to compliment this hyper-feminine extravaganza.
Paying a statement tribute to female strength and power, Gareth Pugh adorned his models with all symbols of confidence and dominance. Accessorising with dominatrix collars, man-eater masks, and sharp cheek contouring achieved by tying string over the models faces. His collection channeled sharp suiting, large overcoats with oversized collars and elbow-length gloves. Troops of warm beige, brown and mauve hues strongly contrasted against electric blue garment with white stars.
A very personal collection, using motherhood as her muse given she recently gave birth to Valentine, Simone Rocha explored the emotional responses to motherhood. Warm tones of nudes and reds. Sheer dresses decorated with lace and embroidery, over-sizing, and dressing gowns appeared to be the theme. Simone Rocha expertly showcased craft embellishments, tailored tulle, and ultra-feminine shapes with faux fur, completing the looks with bold dark lips and almost wet-look up dos.
Revealing a storm of illustrative embroidery in stars, arrows, hearts, butterflies, Mary Katranzou explored a dimension of ‘cowboy princesses’. Models paraded a playful, imaginative vision of flirtatious, fun-loving, array of clashing prints and colours which stood out against ‘granny-ish’ style tweed suiting, with pleated midi skirts, full sleeves, and layering. Bold furs, pleated midi skirts, leopard print, and leather look blouses decorated the remarkable collection that nodded towards a combination of retro daydreams and sci-fi movies.
Giving us a candy coated collection of popsicles and and sugary hued scarves, Charlotte Simone’s A/W ’16 collection ventures into the realm of outerwear for the very first time. Pastel hues complement fluffy layers and shaggy textured giving us the chance to introduce candy colours into a grown up wardrobe.