This week, the fashion elite migrated across the Pond from New York to London. After a very brief stopover in the North East following a diverted flight which left Anna Wintour herself momentarily stranded in Newcastle, the deciders of which trends would be the ones to succeed and which would be the ones to disappear were all once again together in our capital. London is traditionally the quirky, youthful city of fashion month, where designers such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood have previously shown their flair for interpreting the city’s rebel culture. So after witnessing the downtown luxe appeal of the Big Apple, the world’s eyes were on London to see what our British designers would be offering for the forthcoming season’s trends. And of course, we did not disappoint. Read on for our round up of some of the design and trend highlights of LFW 2014.
German-born Markus Lupfer has long had a penchant for the quirks of the British. Weekends in seaside towns such as Brighton and Blackpool are his inspiration for the AW14 collection, which was presented in a set named “The Lupfer Cafe” where models lounged nonchalantly tucking into diner lunches of hot dogs, chips and milkshakes, while playing bingo and filling in crosswords. Slogans such as “Bingo” and “One Sandwich Short of a Picnic” adorned the signature merino knits, while separates were emblazoned with tartan and floral prints. While the collection may have appeared simplistic in its design, the beauty was in the details. From coated mohair to impeccable craftmanship, Lupfer’s AW14 collection was a perfectly wearable array of pieces which will be gracing international wishlists.
Marking the 25th anniversary of the opening of the Joseph store in South Kensington, London, the AW14 Joseph offering was a spin on the design houses signature pieces. Traditional knitwear and outerwear were reworked with new silhouettes and fabrics, serving as a subtle reminder to international fashion that Joseph as a brand has a firm place in London fashion. Creative director Louise Trotter presented a beautiful collection of wearable pieces, from the signature silk shirt to a wine check shearling biker jacket, every girl worth her fashion credentials will be investing in a piece of Joseph for next season.
House of Holland
Despite saying that this was the first season he would be presenting a Little Black Dress, Henry Holland showed a collection which was utterly eclectic and the definition of fashion fabulous. Summarising the mood of London fashion perfectly, Holland’s opening look featured a T Shirt emblazoned with “Riche Bishe”. And so the show went on, with a theme of debauched debutantes (the show notes called the girls “a gang of HOH harlots”) wearing an array of slogans and bomber jackets, the House of Holland show was outlandish, colourful, exciting and unpredictable. It was London fashion at its finest.
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Following his use of Jim Morrison for inspiration for the men’s show in Paris last month, it was no little wonder that the Paul Smith show opened in London with Stevie Nicks’ cover of “Go Your Own Way”. However, the designer chuckled in his own affable way, saying he was citing the the late 70s as design inspiration, a time which predated high street fashion when women were forced to be more inventive and resourceful. The AW14 collection showed an array of prints and patterns, from jacquard to paisleys, the jewel toned patterns originated from Persian carpets and wallpapers which were the perfect complement to the colour blocked outerwear which was also shown. Mr Smith declared the collection as a personal favourite of his, and we can’t help but agree.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
The key look of this AW14 collection by Dame Vivienne Westwood was a short red suit with lapels that closed to form a heart. While it wasn’t the most intricate, or the most stand-out look, it was the piece which only Dame Viv could show and get away with it. Who else would design a red heart suit and get away with it? Answer, no one. Fuelled by nostalgia, legacy and post-war atmosphere, the collection was more restrained than usual. Beautiful in its details, from wide shouldered coats and suits, to signature Westwood tailoring, the AW14 collection was a wonder to behold.
All images are courtesy of style.com